Filed under Quality Experiences

Experiencing Music as a Musician, Part 5

I like a lot of different styles of music but there is something across different types of music that always wins me over and that’s music that is “dense”. Dense music would be music that has several different layers of different things going on at the same time.  You can come across this I think mostly in rock and jazz.  I’d like to give three examples of what I mean from three completely different styles of music.

Rush – Secret Touch

For some I can completely understand where this might seem like just a wall of noise, but that’s just it – it IS a wall of noise and it’s organized chaos. It’s amazing that three guys can write and play music like this. From the bluesy groove at the beginning it launches off a cliff straight into 4th gear with the 1-2, 1-2-1-2, 1-2-1-2, 1-2-1,2,3,4 – 1,2,3,4 push. Then to be able to melodically sing over this sort of playing is a superhuman feat. At 3:27 the song breaks into the mid-part to 3:55 and then at 4:09 it grooves on a guitar run over a punch bass and kick drum all over 4/4. Listen for the guitar playing the melody over all of this. At 6:23 it starts the trippy groove to the outro and fade. This is what I mean about “dense” – all this stuff is going on at the same time and overlapping into a single piece. Dissect it and you have pieces, blend it and you have a piece of work. It’s like cooking – you add in all the ingredients and layer them in – same thing happens in some kinds of music. Just kick back and let’s this performance take you for a ride.

Now check this one out….

Incognito – Expresso Madureira

Just a funky funky groove cover of the Banda Black Rio track. It’s starts of with a fat guitar chord progression and solid 4/4 kick beat and immediately layers in the horn section. Listen to all the elements separately if you can isolate them with your year. Focus on just the hi-hat for instance, or the keys, or just the bass groove. Then around 2:10 hear how they punch the horns with the kick drum. At 2:32 the band settles into a slick groove where they feature the keyboard solo but the bass and drummer also take short pops at solos underneath the keyboard player who’s going off. The band build this section to a crescendo and releases the tension at 3:55 (check out the drum fills here). Then at 4:30 the trombone takes over and brings the song to full party scale. There are reasons why music makes you feel the way you feel – whether it’s a groove, or major 7th versus a 9th – you don’t even have to know what those are to understand that changing one small thing changes the whole palette of the song – and you’re reaction to it. Bands work on this stuff for live gigs because it makes a difference. If you know how to do it you can take an audience for a ride.

And finally…

Pat Metheny – Third Wind

This piece is really a three-part tune stung together. For any Metheny fan this is a classic from one of the most defining periods of time from the group. If you listen to the piece you’ll hear the first part sets the tone with a Brasilian infused back beat and the main hook melody that builds up to the soaring guitar lick at 1:50 and the band doesn’t miss a beat. From there check out how the solo goes blues over the piano comping. The band takes it to 3:25 where they break it down to what sounds like a afro-brasilian tribal thing – it’s got a little trance like groove happening where then the whole band takes turns throwing in their individual little bits – beats, melodies, color, texture – it’s all in there. At 5:20 the set the stage for part 3 with a hook that almost sounds like it’s telling you a story. At 5:51 it transitions to the final section.

Check out the underlying beat holding it all together. At around 6:13 the guitar comes back in with the theme that the rest of the band responds to. When I say “dense” this is a great example of dense music – there are about 5 different things going on in here at this point between rhythm and lead. At 7:22 it takes off into the phenomenal (again) organized chaos that it addictive if you’re a performing musician. The freedom to freestyle jam in the middle of a tune like this while keeping it all moving forward is one of the coolest places to be as a musician.

By the end of this song I dare you to not be able to hum the final hook for the rest of the day.

If you want to enjoy parts 1-4 of this theme – visit this link.

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Return to Rome, Day 3 Final Day

Now over jet lag I there was something I really wanted to do this morning and that was to get up super early and see Rome before the city really woke up – and it was Sunday which made it even extra quiet. At 6:15 am I was the first one in the hotel breakfast bar with the daily cornetto e caffe’ and the morning paper. I had time to think about where I wanted to go first and decided to get over to the Castello Sant’Angelo when it first opened.

On the way over there by foot you get to pass all the cafes that are starting to open up and you only hear the church bells overhead, the hushed voices from the street and the sound of all of the cucchiaini (little espresso spoons) stirring the shots in the tazzine.  I had a few hours before the Castello even opened so I walked down passed Piazza Cavour, crossed the Tiber and made my way down Via di Panico toward the Pantheon.  I wanted to go back and check out the famous Cafe di San Eustachio.  I practically had Rome to myself for two hours that morning – when I arrived to the Piazza del Pantheon was completely empty except for a couple of pigeons and some garbage men.  It must be odd to be a garbage man in Rome because it’s like working in a living museum – I bet they don’t even look twice anymore.  I hope I’m wrong because these garbage men have the best route in the world if you think about it.

Noodling my way through the backstreets of this are back over toward the Tiber to cross the bridge in front of Castello Sant’ Angelo. When I arrived I made my way straight to the top terrace.  Amazingly no one else came up there for 30 minutes and it was only me on the top terrace of the Castello with a 360 degree view of Rome spread out before me.  On this trip I was interested in collecting a few very specific views of the city that I had never had before to see if I could take in the lay of the land from a new perspective.  I will say that this terrace is a must-visit terrace for anyone going to Rome because it perfectly lays out how St. Peter’s is positioned sort of perpendicularly to the rest of the city.

I spent about 40 minutes up on the roof of the Castello before coming back down at about 10am and making my way back to the hotel.  I was fried.  I had been going non stop for two days on foot in Rome and realized after being up a 6am and crossing Rome again on foot before 10am that I needed to catch at least 2 more hours of sleep.  On the way back the city was now much more alive (even though there was a lazy aire about the place).  I stopped off at a small bar in Piazza Cavour for a Prosciutto Schiacciata sandwich that was the best you could ever imagine.  Schiacciata means “flattened” and this is a classic stand-up food in Italy.  Here’s the difference between eating a sandwich in the USA and one in Italy.  In the USA people want to cram as much stuff into the sandwich as possible – ham, turkey, cheese, roast beef, olives, peppers, and on and on….  In Italy they zero in on the one main ingredient of the sandwich whatever it is (in this case prosciutto) and you dive into it and really taste THE ingredient your supposed to taste instead of a mish-mash of 7 or 8 things.  In Italy food is really and truly about essence.  It’s zen.

While sitting at the bar a couple of guys came in for un caffe’.  It’s amazing to watch this simple act of walking into a bar and making the smallest of coffees last long enough to have a meaningful conversation.  It’s like watching a ritual – walk up to the bar, order the shots, turn the cup, stir in the sugar, swirl it around, kick it back, talk.  Repeat until coffee is gone and you lick out the stained sugar crystal and head out the door.

After a much needed two hour power nap and a fresh shower I was juiced for the rest of the day.  This afternoon I wanted to go hit up the top of the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II.  Not that I really cared about the monument because generally speaking I could care less about these sort of things – what I was after was the view from the top which in 20 years I don’t think has been accessible.  The city of Rome had apparently changed this because I saw people the day before strolling on top of it.  Heading back through Piazza di Popolo I stopped off at the Police and Military exposition that took over the whole piazza.  All of these different modes of Italian law enforcement transportation were on display from an old Fiat 500 to a helicopter to a what else? …  a police Lamborghini.  I mean come on – imagine you’re speeding down the Italian highway and you’re pulled over by a cop driving a Lamborghini, that’s not even a fair fight.  Only in Italy would they even dream of painting up a Lamborghini as a cop car, and it was real (and the seemingly big hit of the open air expo).

Today was the hottest of the three days and there is a trick in Italy when walking in the city that holds in the heat – just find a church and go inside for a few minutes.  Churches are always chilled and have an odd quality of air in them that brings down your temperature a few notches before you head out again.  Walking down Via del Corso and looping between the left and the right sides of the side streets, I made the time to go back to Piazza di Spagna because when you’re in Rome this is a sort of must-do .  This is probably THE iconic locale in Rome that people think of when they think of Rome and it was looking good.  The steps were as usual full of backpackers and hippies, but it’s still fun to go hang out there for a little while and take in the scene.

Rome was full of street performers doing their thing including these four guys that just spent the day sitting on the street in these silver masks collecting money.  It’s kind of an odd way to make money and usually I think people give money to street performers that actually DO something – but the shot was too funny not to take.

Walking all the way down to the end of Via del Corso I made it to Piazza Venezia and onto the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II.  It was pretty cool to be able to finally walk up on the wedding cake (it looks like a wedding cake) and around back to the elevator to go up to the top.  The funny thing was the guy that had the unenviable job of working the elevator.  He was telling us that he had the world’s worst job – all day long all he does is stand on his feet and ride the elevator up and down for hours on end and with no air conditioning.  He told us “questo e’ un lavoraccio” (this is a shitty job).  Once on top I have to say the views were amazing and it gave me a vantage point of Rome I had never seen before.

After hitting the roof I ended up at the cafe on the backside of the monument.  It’s actually on the monument and has a setting you can’t believe facing the Roman forum and Colosseum.  The patio was full of Romans all taking their apertifs of Caffe Shakerato and Aperols.  Just as a side note… click here to see how a shakerato is prepared – they’re great in the summer.

The thing you notice however these days in Italy with the Euro is you always feel like you’re burning through cash – and I’ve come to the conclusion that it is because you actually are burning through cash.  When you buy something small – say a cappuccino, it’s 3 Euro – you pay with a 10 Euro note and you get back only coins.  You buy something for 11 Euro, you pay with a 20 Euro note, you get back only coins.  By the end of the day you’re walking around with no cash but a pocket full of coins.  Even though the coins are worth the same as the cash, you feel like you’re wiped out every day because Italy (Europe) consumes your cash money  It’s sounds funny but it is real.  The Italian and the Europeans blow through cash from just daily living.

After a visit along the Roman Forum and Coloseum I was ready to hit the hotel for a shower and a break.

Later that night I met up for dinner with a third old friend in Rome, Selena who I had not seen in over 20 years.  She works for perhaps the most famous Italian jewelry company and is in charge of throwing all the parties for the whales to come and buy high-priced jewelry and watches.  She was telling me they have a budget of something like $2 million just to through parties all over Europe and they fly in big time customers into places like Monte Carlo for their six and seven figure spending jaunts.  It’s the full 007 treatment – boats, hotels, casinos, privilege.  She has a killer Rolodex of who to call across Europe for special events but she’s bored – says she’s been doing it for so many years now and working in Italy may seem glamorous but there are a lot of politics in Italy – it’s hard to grow a career and even harder to get paid well.

Then she was telling me about Italian men.  She says that Italian men want mother-wives to take care of them like bambini and that in reality Italian men talk the talk but don’t walk the walk.  She was telling me that by and large Italian men in Italy start all kinds of business ideas but don’t finish most of them because in the end they want the sure thing – the “busta paga” (monthly stipend).  Over dinner of Cacio e Pepe and Carbonara (two insanely rich but simple Roman pastas) she was also telling me that the Socialists in Europe are ruining Europe – from Italy to Spain to Belgium she is living in the real world of what happens when countries elect Socialists into power.  The quality of life for the very people the Socialists claim to want to help goes so far down they cannot even recover, and the people who vote in the Socialists just buy into the promises without ever understanding the consequences of what really happens.  I get the sense that many Italians are frustrated to no end with the Italian government and the Euro.  They miss the 80′s and 90′s when life in Italy was more frizzante.

On the flight out of Rome the next morning up to Frankfurt, Alitalia only had men serving as hosts, from the guy waiting for us at the front door of the plane with his sunglasses and folded arms, to the four guys serving on board (all tanned) and with names like Stefano, Gian Luca, and Antonio that served biscotti with the question “dolci o salati?” (sweet or salty?).  On the flight it was a nonstop promotion for the new Alfa Romeo Giuletta from a guy who looked like a bald soccer player who couldn’t emphasize enough how cool the curves on this car were as he drove along the mountain switchbacks of some seaside Italian village.   Next to me were two Germans who had no flair at all.  It was clear that I was leaving the land of loose and heading into the land of the stiff.  The whole body language changes when you move from Italy to Germany, and it only serves to confirm what I already knew – do Germany for business and leave Italy for fun.

Day 2 is here.

Day 1 is here

Return to Rome, Day 2

If there are two things Italians love to tell you it’s “Non c’e’ problema” (No problem) and “Ci penso io” (I’ll take care of it).

They say these two phrases a lot and it is all so reassuring and you can just sense how in control the italians are in any situation – until there IS a problem – then they hit you with the many reasons there was no problem until __________ (fill in the blank) happened and how they were is control of everything until some unforeseen thing cause whatever was supposed to happen not happen.  This is very Italian and if you’ve had any significant experience with the Italians in Italy you’re laughing right now because you fully understand this.

This was one of the first things I overheard this morning as I was enjoying an early caffe latte and cornetto, laughing to myself that I wasn’t on the receiving end of that non c’e’ problema.

Today was the first full day in Rome and I was going to meet up with a couple of my main friends from back in 1989 who are both Roman to the core.    I wasn’t going to meet them until later that day so I had time to start the day at Pincio, a terrace overlooking Piazza del Popolo.  The cool thing about Pincio is you can get a good sense of the layout of the city from up top from Piazza Venezia to the Left all the way to St. Peters directly across.  It’s a good place to start almost any trek in Rome.  From Pincio you can also walk along a high ridge over to the topside of the Piazza di Spagna and cut through over to Via Veneto.

That morning I had only come up to Pincio for the view though and after heading back down to the Piazza del Popolo, I crossed the city on my way to Campo dei Fiori, a small open air market I used to go to on some mornings for fresh fruit or breakfast.  On the way there I crossed through Piazza Navona to see how things looked these days.  I only noticed two differences from the place I knew – Cafe de Colombia was now gone (too bad) and with the huge Gucci banner covering one of the buildings it was clear that someone figured out they could sell ad space in one of the most visited places in the city.

One of the things I was looking to pick up in Rome was a new Moka for making stove top coffee.  I had remembered that Campo dei Fiori also sold some housewares so I was happy to see a few stands selling this sort of stuff.  The small streets around Campo dei Fiori are really better than the main piazza anyway which is a little touristy at times.  The little streets there are quiet and to some degree even have a local, “not much going on here”, type of vibe.  You see people going about their daily lives picking up groceries, reading the paper, sweeping the front stoop, and you can smell the early kitchen aromas at 9am from the residents preparing lunch for a few hours later.

The great thing about Rome and in fact most of Italy is the local markets and food shops.  In Italy you have to search for a bad meal and in part much of that is because they have great ingredients.  From fresh grown vegetables and fruit to incredible cheeses, what most in the USA would consider a hard to find or an expensive treat, the local shops in Italy deal in as daily fare.  Even though it is considerably more costly today that it was back when I lived here in 1989 and was spending in lire (a far more interesting money than the Euro because it had it’s own personality and everyone was a “millionaire”), these ingredients are part of life in Italy and if you can’t afford it you figure out a way to afford it.

After roaming around the back streets I crossed back over the Tiber to get into St. Peters.  It was a beautiful sunny day but there was a massive line to get into the church wrapping around 3/4 of the entire square.  Let’s just say I didn’t waste 2 hours of my short trip back to Rome waiting in that line.  There are now airport style x-ray machines to enter St. Peters (maybe it’s been this way for a while) and it’s all business.  What’s not changed is the look of disappointment on people’s faces when they wait in line and get all the way to the front only to be told they can’t enter the church because their shoulders or knees are exposed and that would be a sign of disrespect. Almost as if by miracle there are people right there on the spot ready to sell you a shawl.

In May this isn’t a huge deal but in the summer I’m sure the faithful from around the world have a hard time with this.  What also hasn’t changed are the Vatican tour guides that seemingly all have the inside track to the right store where if you buy something from that particular store they can make sure your purchased get blessed at the Vatican before it is delivered in holy form to your hotel room later that same day.  Living in Rome and seeing the business side of Vatican City was one of the more eye-opening formative experiences in my life when I was a resident there.

I’ll never forget years ago my Roman friend Daria Z (the one I was to meet up with this same day for lunch) told me as a Roman she tries to avoid St. Peter’s as it’s almost always a logjam of people and traffic.  For many Romans the Vatican is like maybe Niagara Falls for the people in Western New York, it’s always there and maybe once in a while you go that way.

I met up with Daria right at the opening of St. Peter’s Square on Via della Concilliazione and we took off in her little Italian car up to the Gianicolo (where there are more great views of Rome).  We ended up picking up her mom and driving to the complete other side of town near the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore to eat at one of her mom’s friend’s cafes.  On the way we passed this car with the windows open and the drive happily singing to himself what might be the most Roman of all expressions “Mortacci vostri, mortacci vostri…”.  In English we don’t have an expression that quite captures this phrase but the closest thing might be “your crappy dead relatives” or perhaps “I curse your dead relatives” –  and the “vostri” part of that means all of them because on other occassions they use the singular “mortacci tua”.  In any event, it was funny to drive by a guy singing this as if it were just on the radio.

At lunch the absolute coolest thing we had (and something I didn’t even know existed) was Caffe al Pistacchio, which is a Sicilian way of taking an espresso that has a base of white chocolate and smashed pistachios and turns your espresso emerald green.  It is ridiculously good.  You can see what was left of it in this photo.

Some may think doing routine things in Rome would be silly but I was more interested in these three day in seeing daily life than I was some monument.  I headed on foot next to the Stazione Termini Train Station.  I didn’t have any trains to catch but I hadn’t seen the place in a long time and I really only wanted to hang out in daily Roman life.  That and I also was going to meet up with another one of my good friends from Rome, Renato, a partner in one of Italy’s biggest law firms not so far from that area.

The great thing about having friends in Rome (or any city really) is you see the place on a completely different level.  After heading over to Renato’s law firm we jumped on his moto and shot across the whole city to go grab a drink near my hotel and catch up a bit.

We ended up back where I started my day in Piazza del Popolo at Bar Rosati for a San Bitter.  It’s too bad we don’t really drink bitters in the States because even though it is an acquired taste (think non alcoholic Campari), it is a great drink.  Bar Rosati has been there forever and I don’t think it’s the kind of place you go on a daily basis because it’s in a very packed Piazza but you go for the view (below) as the outdoor cafe is right in front of the two churches on either side of the Via del Corso.

My friend Renato told me there was a party later that night at one of his friends house and invited me.  When I got there I noticed parked police cars and a security booth on the corner and entrance to the next door neighbors home.  While waiting there for my friend to arrive, I asked the cops what was with all the security.  They told me that the house behind them was the residence of the Israeli Ambassador to Italy.  Later my friend told me “questa strada e’ la strada piu’ blindata di Roma” (this is the most armored street in all of Rome).  Nice.

The party had a sort of “Eyes Wide Shut” feeling, there were 15-20 couples there, all well dressed, to hear a recital from an incredible piano player from the Academia di Santa Cecilia and she played this amazing piece of music called “La Jota Aragonesa” with a nice dissonance in all the right places.  The house belonged to a friend of his who is the head of an investment firm in Rome and after the recital we ended up on the roof for cocktails and food.

I learned that evening that most of the crowd in Italy has only the propaganda view of Barack Obama.  Many of the Italians only heard the “marketed” version of the American President and were unaware of the real story.  I can imagine this.  Truth be told how many Americans really  know anything about Italian politicians other than the 10 seconds they might get on TV once in a while.  One of the women at the party said to me about Obama with absolute confidence … “Vuole che tutti stanno bene, Michelle e’ bella e anche la famiglia” (Obama just wants everyone to be well and both his wife and family are beautiful).  That’s the marketed image of Barack Obama that so many people see overseas and they’re just not getting essence of what’s taking place in the USA currently.   In our conversation she was astonished to hear the other side of the story.

Back to the hotel.  There was one more full day to go.

Day 1 is here.

Day 3 is here.

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Return to Rome, Day 1

Earlier this year I went back to Rome for three days of absolutely no plans other than to walk the city, eat food, shoot photos, and take in the city I first stepped foot into 22 years ago in 1989 when I left the USA for a year of living abroad.  I had been back to Rome several times since then but mostly on business and never really with the time to just take it all in at a slow pace and with no agenda.  I had 72 hours to move throughout the city.

As we were landing at Fiumicino airport it was great to see again the Italian countryside by air – it’s such a different look than all other places – terra cotta roofs, green hills, and smoke rising from some of the farms where they’re burning cypress wood.  Just after landing and picking up my luggage I started walking over to the “niente da dichiarare” door when a street clothed Italian cop pulled me over to ask me if I had anything to declare.  I thought I’d have some fun straight away because the Italian are fun to mess with) and so I told him I was walking through the nothing to declare line – because I-had-nothing-to-declare.  If I had had something to declare, I would have walked through the other line.

He wasn’t amused.  He asked for my passport, looked at my name and asked if I spoke Italian.  I told him I did.  He asked “you carrying any cigarettes?”  No.  ”Any alchohol?”  No.  ”Nothing to declare?”  I told him… “Te l’ho detto non ho niente da dichiarare”.  ”You sure you don’t have any cigarettes?”  I’m sure.  ”Va bene, vai...”   Welcome back to Rome.

Day 1:

Once checked in and footloose in the city, the first thing I did was go to the very first take out pizzeria I saw and got a few squares of pizza with tomatoes and arugula.  You can’t imagine how good this is.  This is why I was here – flavor and texture permeates everything in Rome.

I was staying near the Piazza del Popolo, which has always been my favorite spot to start a walk in Rome because you get a great perspective of direction from this spot.  In Piazza del Popolo there were many foreigners who were walking around mesmerized just being in this city.  Rome has a weird affect on people visiting  - it’s visual and aural overstimulation – it stuns them.  Visitors walking in Rome (especially for the first time) have this look on their face like they can’t actually believe they’re there.

You know what you see in Rome?  Life.  People interacting on a totally different plane – the hands, the clothes, the cadence.

It was about 4pm by the time I set out for a first evening’s walk and I decided my destination that night would be Trastevere for dinner.  I walked through time almost tracing the roads I lived in every day over two decades ago down Via del Corso with the indimenticabile smell of diesel in the air.  I’ve always associated diesel with Rome in a nice sort of way.  Passing by the Pantheon I heard in the air what has to be one of the best tango songs in the world, Libertango was hovering over the piazza played live by some anonymous bandoneon player.  All around was the thick Roman dialect that just drips with a certain roughness that you can only appreciate once you can recognize the differences in regional Italian accents – trust me here, the Roman accent is very cool.  It’s a mix of catwalk and redneck depending on who’s doing the talking.

I made my way all the way across the city this evening from Piazza del Popolo straight through Via del Corso, Piazza di Spagna, over toward the Pantheon for a quick stop in a classic spot – Giolitti.  Giolitti is a bar/gelateria that is a bit overpriced and by now even a bit too touristed, but in any event when you have three days in Rome and you happen to be near the Pantheon you stop by Giolitti per una coppa.  The scene in the surrounding streets on a nice May evening is an odd mix of cobblestone, sunlight, and surrealism.   Rome is not a huge city but there is a certain grandness about it that simply doesn’t exist in any other European city – not even in any other Italian city.

It was getting late in the afternoon by now and I still had a solid hour to walk before making it to Trastevere.  I continued over to Piazza Navona and toward the back side of the Capitoline hill before turning to head across the Tiber River to Trastevere.  The sky was blue, the sunlight perfect for shooting photos, and the air was classic Roman springtime.

The cool thing about the Capitoline Hill is the view you get to the Foro Romano – it’s a dead center eye line shot from there to the Colosseo and one of the best places to take in a view that has existed longer than you can imagine.  When you look over the Forum you can’t help but see that in some ways the ancient Romans had their act together more than the modern Romans.

I crossed the Ponte Palatino and approached Trastevere from Piazza in Piscinula down the Via della Lungaretta.  One of the things I came to Rome for was Suppli’, a Roman “thing” that is essentially  a cousin to the Arancino – a hot ball of cheese surrounded by rice and tomato sauce then formed into a ball, breaded and deep fried.  On the way to dinner I walked past a small little bar that had a stock of these ready to go.  I stopped in, ordered two or three and sat at the bar for the appetizer thinking to myself “you’ve got to be kidding me” – simple simple simple and ridiculously good – but only here can you get this.

One of the main reasons I wanted to make it to Trastevere that evening is because one of my favorite spaces in Rome is the Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, a medium size square with a small church that has a golden mosaic on the  front that shimmers when the lights come on and the sun goes down.  Although there are usually many tourists here this piazza retains a certain quality that is unique, it’s right out of a old movie and a visually incredible place in the evening.

My goal that night was to find a local joint in some back street that could serve up the classic Roman primo Bucatini all’Amatriciana, a pasta dish made with guanciale (hog jowl), onion, san marzano tomoatoes and a touch of pepperoncini.  Bucatini look like the kind of pasta you’d make with a Play-Doh machine when you press the Play-doh down with the handle and the long fat strings come out – and if you go to Rome this is a must-have dish.

After scratching the food itch for dinner and refueling it was time to head back to the hotel along the river.  I decided to cross back over and move along the Tiber in order to be able to check out the Castello San’t Angelo at night (something I never once did in a year of living in Rome strangely enough).  This is the place that is attached with underground tunnels to the Vatican residences and was used to defend the city and Popes.  Today you can still enter it and check out the insane view from the rooftop terrace (which I planned on coming back to do first thing Sunday morning).

By now I was bushed – transatlantic flight, wired on espresso, full on pasta, 7 or 8 mile walk across the city in only a few hours, mezzo-litro di Rosso, some 200 photos, and a late night arrival back at the hotel.  I needed sleep because I had two more full days to dive deeper into the city.  Rome is the bomb.

Day 2 is here.

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An Interview with Nicole Daedone of OneTaste

Q.  So that I can tee this up properly, would you mind first telling us what is OneTaste so we have the right context.

A. OneTaste is a company redefining the way women (and men) relate to female orgasm and pleasure.  We teach a practice called Orgasmic Meditation, a partnered sexuality practice focused on the female genitals for 15 minutes. Through this practice, people experience deeper intimacy, sensation and connection to their partners, bodies,sex and orgasm.

Q. How do most (many) people think of orgasm versus what it can be with a little deeper attention and understanding?

A. Orgasm, as it exists in our cultural mindset is one small moment (what we at OneTaste call climax) often the end goal of a sexual experience.  We think of “having” an orgasm, rather than noticing the sexual, or orgasmic energy that permeates the whole experience.  At OneTaste, we think of it not as something to have, but rather something to be inside of.  Orgasm is the energy that creates the sexual experience.  The climax is only one small part of the whole. Another way to look at it would be to consider climax as a spark and orgasm as the fire that spark is born from.

Q. Tell me about a world where people took the time to really focus on this area – say the way they block out time for the gym or dining?

A. I LOVE this question.  Our sexuality, just like any other part of our human experience, should be given care, time and attention.  We do this for our intellect in the form of work, creative process, reading and other hobbies.  We do this for our physical body in terms of eating, exercising and sleeping.  Some of us do this with our emotions by hiring a coach or seeing a therapist.  Our sex should be no different; it is key to our experience as humans and yet we keep it hushed up, in the dark, full of taboo and shame.

If people were to take on OM as a practice, the world would look just about the same, only a brighter – a  better version of what we experience now. The world would go from black & white to color. So, imagine the way you feel after a great makeout, where your senses are more awake, your critical self is a bit more at rest and your willingness to be more a part of the present moment  is amplified – and extend that into all moments of your life. Imagine everyone feeling like this all the time. What you might find is that all of the distractions (food, drugs, shopping, arguing, isolation) we use to dull our senses, because we feel disconnected, would begin simply, quietly to fall away, because they would no longer be necessary.

Q. For some reason if I quickly think about four words right at this very moment I come up with Stress, Release, Breathing, Health.  Why do you think I associated these words immediately?

A. It’s likely that you tuned into me, if such a crazy thing is possible. These things have unquestionably been my focus of late. I’ve been working with Dr. Sara Gottfried, an amazing Harvard trained MD and together we’re looking at this epidemic of low vitality caused by stress in the culture and how the release of hormones through orgasm can remedy its myriad symptoms. Perhaps the word breath comes to mind because in my mind’s eye, when i see a woman having her first OM, it’s invariably some version of watching her exhale in a way she hasn’t been able to exhale for years. Finally she can let go of something she hasn’t known how to let go of.

Q. I’d like to ask you to give a piece of advice to four groups of people.  Young couples, single women, single men, and long-time married couples. Is it the same commentary for all of them or slightly different?

A. OM is like the secret ingredient that when added to almost anything can make it better.  While I may recommend different OM “regimens” to people in these different categories, always based on their particular desire, OM is neutral yet powerful enough to help couples of any age to deepen connection, learn about the other person and create a bond that is fuller and richer.

For single men, I would say that there’s nothing more powerful than learning to be a friend to women. It’s a skill that benefits you whether you’re single or coupled. So, rather than all of these fancy new fangled ways of finding a partner, I would suggest that you learn how to be a friend. Genuinely, the best way to learn to be a friend to a women is to be an ally in her opening her sexual power. If a man is willing to be an instrument in this way, the level of intimacy between him and a woman will transcend any particular type of relationship. When my first OM partner introduced the practice to me, he simply said “I have a mindful sexuality practice I’d like to share with you.” He went on to describe how I would take my pants off, but his clothes would stay on. That we would both place our attention on my orgasm for 15 minutes and afterwards would talk about the experience. Finally that he would expect nothing in return. For me, this was radical and undeniable. It was my first experience of this kind of friendship.

If I could say one thing to women, it would be “ask”. It would be to recognize the depth of desire that exists in your body and recognize that it won’t go away through lack of use or pretending it’s not there. And then, muster whatever courage you can and set about to asking for what you want. It may be a clunky mess, possibly embarrassing, but eventually will turn out to be the key to your power. In this, you’ll want to practice the four stages of having – Knowing what you want, asking for what you want, receiving what you want, and acknowledging what you receive.

For young couples I often see a tendency to want to “protect” a partner from what is true for you. There is a truth that exists in our minds that we often keep from our partners – they are thoughts we think at night in bed, alone in the shower, driving to work.  We all know them – the moment when someone flirted with you and your temperature rose; or how your partner  touched you in a way that you didn’t like, but you pretended it turned you on. In my opinion, the practice of relationship is ultimately to know your partner and to be known by them – and this entails revealing the truth of those moments. It is a practice, something we’re always working at, not a static linear experience. These moments that invite truth telling will either be your tools or your weapons.They will either be what you use to construct a lifelong relationship or build walls against intimacy.

For long married couples: my experience is that people who have been married for a long time often suffer from a lack of novelty; it’s not that the novelty doesn’t exist, but the eye that once saw it has grown dull. My suggestion to couples in this place is to start small in discovering the lover inside of your partner that you’ve forgotten. At night, before you go to bed, simply exchange one secret desire with each other. Say nothing afterwards, but thank you. Your partner shares one, you say thank you.  You say one, your partner says thank you.   No more, no less.   Then, rest well in the knowledge that you are re-creating intimacy. From there, you have a whole new range of play and turn on to work with. Truth is the ultimate turn on.

Q. I was going over your website http://www.onetaste.us - What is the “oral tradition of extended orgasm?

A.   There have always been groups of people throughout cultures that know things about the human experience that aren’t expressed in a conventional context.  Extended orgasm is possible for everyone, but is rarely discussed, let alone taught, in any kind of real way that can improve people’s lives and well being.  I am lucky to have come across these teachings in my life and want everyone to benefit from what I know – and that is that orgasm can be a life changing practice that deepens and enriches all parts of who we are.  I took 10 years to practice and integrate this knowledge into my own life – the synthesis of which I present in my book “Slow Sex”.

Q. Can you give me an anecdote of a person or a couple that you’ve seen transformed (or at least awakened) by what they learned in this arena.

A. Hormones can be a wonderful but flighty friend. Practice is your loyal companion who will see you through thick and thin. A couple whom I recently worked with had been married for 4 years. While the beginning of their relationship had been ignited with heat, over time they began to feel  like strangers to  each other. Outside of the intoxication of their early days together, they couldn’t find their common interest and connection. Without the rush of attraction and bonding hormones, they felt dull. The OM practice provided an arena through which they could come together and deliberately cultivate connection, heat and intimacy.  They found a sustainable way to keep their connection alive and potent.

Q. What’s the worst that can happen?

A.  The worst that can happen is that people try OM with an exact expectation.  OM does a LOT to awaken sex drive, create more intimacy and have women (re)connect with their sexual selves.  However, going into any practice – yoga, sitting meditation, martial arts – with a goal can often not have you see all that you are gaining from the experience outside of your goal.  Take yoga for example:  If your sole purpose is to do a perfect handstand and all your practice goes into perfecting and strengthening your arm muscles and core strength to get to that handstand, you may miss the flexibility you’ve gained in your hips, or how your hamstrings have elongated, how the back pain you used to have has suddenly disappeared.  Even so, the most you have to lose is 15 minutes, so why not try it and see?

Thanks Nicole for being interviewed here on Anthidote!

Experiencing Music as a Musician Part 4

Sometimes a song just moves you.  Why is that?  Everyone has radically different tastes in music and what good for you might be garbage to the next person – BUT there are undeniably those cases where whether you personally like a song or not, you simply have to admit when the musicians have the chops or not.  Al Di Meola is a perfect example of that. 

I’ve been a fan of Al Di Meola for over 20 years.  His music ranges from intense to melodic to structured to edgy to sweeping and a million other terms.  He is one of those “voices’ on guitar that it take only two notes (maybe even a single note) to know who’s on the guitar.   Most of his music has been unheard by the masses (the masses tend to miss all the good stuff) but for those who know his body of work you’ve seen an evolution across several decades of a guy who just is at the top of his game.  Similar to how you might keep a great bottle of wine or olive oil in your kitchen for just the right meals, Al Di Meola is the musician you keep nearby for just when you need a dose of intelligent music.

For this 4th submission on Experience Music as a Musician I selected a song I featured two years ago on Anthidote.  It is Al Di Meola and Leonid Agutin with a phenomenal “pop” piece called “Cosmopolitan Life”.  I say “pop” because I’d like to show you what a “popular” song can sound like if you bring into it the skills of these musicians along with a solid brasilian beat, some jetset lyrics, and an instantly memorable hook – which I all but guarantee you will be whistling all day after you hear this tune.  More pop music should be this sharp.

Starting right out of the gate this tune lays down the groove with the piano putting in a solid salsa beat and a hard 4/4 kick drum tempo 1.2.3.4.1.2.3.4.1.2.3.4 and so on.  This is easy as pie to count and is very natural to anyone on a dance floor.  Next you hear that classic double kick feel on the drums which bleeds Brasil.  The song (sung by a Russian) goes from Colombia to Brasil in the first 10 seconds.  Already cool.  On top of these two things listen carefully to the acoustic guitar players in the background strumming out the classic gypsy stroke which is 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 on top of the 4/4.  We’re not 20 seconds into the song yet and already all kinds of polyrythms are happening.

Next comes the the hard lead on guitar (and a beautiful PRS guitar at that) played almost staccato style.

From here we launch into the first verse punctuated by the lead guitar and at 1:01 we hit the hook – “oh ma yay o ma yo oh ma ya” with the nice female vocals in the back that evoke that classic brasilian chorus you hear so often on the brasilian tracks across so many Brasilian artists. 

This is great stuff and at 2:19 we hit what I think is one of the best bridges I think I’ve ever heard.  A bridge is a piece of music that connects one part of a song to another – you hit the bridge, you cross the bridge, and you come out the other side to either where you were or to a new part of a the song.

Listen carefully at 2:29 to what the bass line does.  It hits just the right note.  This is a case which the choice of note makes all the difference in the world – there could have probably been 3 or 4 notes that could have gone there and worked – but that note evokes just the right atmosphere for where the song is going.  Think of it like a receipe and how you layer flavors together to get to the final dish – it’s the same with music – you layer it, you add a spice here or there, and you let it cook and you savor it.  You savor food with you tongue and you savor music with your ears.  It’s sensory.

This happens again at 2:42 only this time with the bass note AND the vocals.  You may think this is ludicrous but go back and play 2:15 to 2:50 again you will hear what I am talking about. 

The song comes out of the bridge back into the party groove and into the lead solo (which is “tasty” as some might say) and continues straight to the end with a nice close 1-2-3 (rest) 1-2-3 – Valeo!

Plus the room full of knock-out international chicks doesn’t hurt either :-)

If Al Di Meola comes to your town, do something that will leave you with a musical experience – go see him  – you won’t forget it.

 

If you would like to check out parts 1, 2, & 3 on this theme click below.

Experiencing Music as a Musician Part 3

Experiencing Music as a Musician Part 2

Experiencing Music as a Musician Part 1

 

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